Start by making the pesto. Toast the pine nuts in a small frying pan over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes until evenly coloured, then set aside to cool.
Grind the pine nuts, basil, garlic, cheddar, salt and pepper with a pestle and mortar. Gradually add the oil until you achieve your desired consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed.
Preheat the oven to 180C.
Sift the flour, salt and bicarbonate of soda into a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in the buttermilk and a dribble of cold water if needed. Mix to form a soft dough.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and roll it into a 30cm x 25cm rectangular shape. Make sure the dough isn’t sticking.
Spread the pesto over the dough, then scatter over the ham hock and cheese.
Starting from the short side, roll the dough up into a log, then seal the ends and lift the loaf onto a floured baking sheet. Make five slashes on the top of the loaf using a sharp knife.
Bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 30-35 minutes until risen, lightly browned and hollow-sounding when tapped underneath.
Remove from the oven, wrap in a clean dish towel or cloth and transfer to a wire rack to cool. Wrapping the loaf keeps the crust soft.
Enjoy immediately; it should ooze with cheese and pesto once sliced.