Winter by its very nature, seems to suggest steamy breath, frosted mornings and windows fogged up by cooking. Nights are cold and drinks are warm. Food is earthy and hearty, a celebration of forest and fungi.
There are many moments of celebration dotted through the calendar, last-minute guests coming to stay doing the rounds weeks before the big day. You'll need to be armed with a few dishes that will welcome and nourish, and feel right for the time of year. This is one of those recipes, simple, impressive, but most of all delicious.